5 Most Effective Float Fishing Leader Setups Used By Pro River Guides
What Is A Float Fishing Leader Setup?
Your float fishing leader setup is the bottom section of your line below your float. Anglers call this the float leader, or just the leader. However, my most effective leader is made up of multiple parts, and it’s important that your float fishing leader is setup right. I will show you the leader setup that I and other guides use for maximum success.
These 2 float fishing leader setups are proven to be the most effective for trout, steelhead, and salmon. For my float leader setup, you will need a float, 2 leader lines, swivels, weights, a hook, and bait. I will show you how to put it all together properly to be effective in all river conditions.
I have also included a couple of my best 2 bait rigs and my deep water float rig.
I have tried dozens of float fishing leader setups over the last 30 years and I have seen some really bad ones and some really good ones. My float leader setup is proven to work on rivers all around the great lakes and on the inland trout rivers that I have visited.
I have even used this float leader with great success on West Coast steelhead, salmon, and trout rivers.
These are the only float fishing leader setups that anglers need to know for fishing in all types of water conditions.
This page contains affiliate links. If you buy something through one of these links we may make a small commission which is at no cost to you. Commissions allow us to continue to bring you great content. Thank you for your support. Affiliate Policy
What You Need To Build A Good Float Fishing Leader
Before you get started you will need the right materials because the wrong float, the wrong weights, or the wrong hooks will limit your success.
Unfortunately, I see anglers using poorly setup float fishing leaders all the time which shows me that they just don’t know any better and the results are always a lot less fish.
With a few simple adjustments which I will discuss below, they could be catching a lot more fish.
To make the float fishing leader properly you will need the following:
- River Floats – Raven FM floats – Get at FishUSA.com – HERE
- Float Caps – Get at FishUSA.com – HERE
- Leader Line – 6lb, 8lb, and 10lb – Get at FishUSA.com -HERE
- Swivels – Get at FishUSA.com -HERE
- Weights – Split Shots – Get at FishUSA.com
- Hooks – Get at FishUSA.com – HERE
- Bait – See my page Best Baits For Float Fishing
- Forceps or Pliers – For pinching on the split shots.
- Scissors or Nippers – For cutting the leader.
Where To Buy Your Leader Material
I recommend getting all your float fishing leader materials at FishUSA.com because they are one of the few places online that have it all in one place and with great prices.
FishUSA.com also tends to sell more specialty river fishing products that you can’t get at other places and they are a big company with fast shipping and good customer service.
Bass Pro Shops is also another good place to buy your float fishing leader materials but I find that they sometimes don’t have the good quality specialty river gear that top anglers and the pro river guides would use.
You can usually find all the gear you need on Amazon but I sometimes see great prices and I sometimes see these products that I recommend at ridiculously expensive prices, especially on the harder-to-get custom gear that I like.
As an example, I’ve seen leader spools selling for over 50 bucks on Amazon when they are less than $15.00 on FishUSA.com or on Bass Pro Shops.
River Fishing Floats
Some anglers will call them bobbers but when you are a river angler they are called floats. Floats are a very important part of your float fishing leader system but not all floats are good for river fishing.
You only need two types of floats for most rivers in North America, a solid float and a clear float.
The Raven Tackle floats are likely the most popular float around the great lakes region and for good reason, they work and they are inexpensive!
I use the Raven FM floats for most normal small to medium-sized rivers. For the right floats and sizes for different conditions and for the proper setup of the floats check out my page on the 5 Best Centerpin Floats For 2021
For very clear or slow water when the trout, steelhead, or salmon are very cautious I will use the clear Drennan Loafer floats. These are often my go-to floats for trout in a really clear trout stream.
There is a very good reason why a float designed for river fishing is more effective than bobbers that are not made for river fishing and if you are not sure why you need to read my page on how to float fish.
On my page How To Float Fish, I discuss the 4 key fundamentals to becoming a successful float angler and why floats are so important to learning these fundamentals on my page Float Fishing: Tips From A Pro River Guide For More Trout
Leaders – The Best Ones For Float Fishing
The leader material you buy and use is important when setting up your float fishing leader.
I often tell anglers that for steelhead fishing I use 8lb leader but then I pull out a spool of leader material from my vest and it says 4 pounds on the label, what’s the deal with that?
Honestly, for marketing and selling reasons, the leader brands do not always label their leader properly and this could mean you might be using the wrong sized leader which might mean no fish for you.
A leader that is too thick will be seen by the fish and you will struggle to get them to bite your bait. A leader that is too thin will mean more fish will bite your bait but you will likely break off too many fish.
My simple rule when buying leaders is to buy them based on the diameter of the leader, not the pound test that the company says it is because they are often misleading.
I have used many brands that say they are 0.20mm or .008″ diameter and they all break at about the same pound test, yet some say 4lb, some will say 6lb, and some say 8lb.
The reason I believe they do this is that anglers will use a leader labeled 6lb test that is actually 12 pounds and they will believe it’s super strong. They may even use an 8-pound test that is 16 pounds and it will be so thick that the fish won’t touch it.
The truth is that there are no laws or enforcement against this. This is why if I tell you to use an 8lb test leader you could be using a brand or leader that is so thick you might not catch any fish on it. Go by the diameter size below and you should be safe.
What Size Leader Is Best?
- For Small Trout – 0.12mm to 0.177mm or .004″ to .006″
- For Very Clear Water Steelhead– 0.18mm or 0.007in.
- For Clear to green water Steelhead– 0.20mm or .008in.
- For Off colored or dirty water, or faster and big rivers, or rivers with lots of wood – 0.22mm or .009in.
- For really big water like the Niagara river, and when fishing out west I may go up to 0.23mm to 0.26mm.
The best all-around size for a steelhead float fishing leader setup on most medium-sized rivers around the great lakes is 0.20mm or .008in leader.
I also recommend buying and using only high-quality fluorocarbon leaders from reputable brands since some of that cheap crap you can buy online will break and cause problems.
Weights And Swivels
You need weights for your float fishing leader setup. Without them and with the wrong ones or the wrong sizes you won’t have much success in moving water that is over 3 feet deep.
Simply put, your weights get your bait down to the fish faster and they keep the bait in the strike zone longer. That equals more fish.
Some states do not allow the use of lead weights so I will use the Orvis Non-Toxic Oval Split Shot instead when I fish in those states.
The weights we use on our float fishing leaders are called split shots, and the best split shots will be dark in color and not shiny silver. I use BB and AB size split shots the most. You can get the Sure Shot brand that I use at FishUSA.com.
I have an entire page on Weights For Fly And Float Fishing: Everything You Need To Know
For swivels, I use the Raven Micro Swivels when fishing for steelhead and trout. You can get them at FishUSA.com – HERE
Not sure how much weight to use for your float, all floats are different but there is a way that works for me, and I discuss this on my page Float and Weights Setup: How Much Weights To Use.
Hooks For Float Fishing Leaders
There are different hooks for the size of the fish, the type of bait you use, and the clarity of the water.
The hooks that I use when guiding are the Raven Sedge hook in size 8 or 10, the Raven Specimen hook in size 8 or 10, and the Gamakatsu Octopus hook in sizes 6 through 12.
You can see all the hooks that I recommend and use, and my tips on when to use them on my page 4 Best Float Fishing Hooks
Forceps Or Pliers
Forceps or plies will be required to pinch on the splits shots.
Pinch them on only enough to secure them but not crush them.
Crushing them may damage the line or make them go flat which can cause the line to spin.
Shot Patterns For Float Fishing Steelhead
I use something called a shot line for my float fishing leader setup and recommend it to all my clients for their float fishing leaders.
The shot line allows me to use a colored mainline or a clear line. The shot line is heavier than the lower part of the leader where the bait goes.
Because the shot line is heavier it lasts a long time and is reusable and rarely breaks.
The mainline on your reel should be heavier than the shot line, and the shot line should be heavier than the lower leader line. The reason you want the shot line to be heavier than the bottom leader is that you want the leader to break near the bait and not up the line.
There are two ways to set up your shot lines. My way is to use all the same size split shots and to space them out further apart as they get closer to the bait. You can see this in the picture.
The picture above shows my standard tapered leader for Great Lakes Steelhead. For steelhead, I use AB-size split shots.
I use the same leader for trout but I just lighten the shot line to 0.20mm and in the bottom part of the leader I change it to 0.12mm to 0.16mm, depending on my needs. For the split shots on my trout leader, I may downsize to BB-sized split shots.
The other option which you can see on the right in the picture is to use a larger split shot on the top and then they progressively get smaller and smaller as you get closer to the bait while maintaining the same distance between each split shot.
You can see both options in this in the picture.
I have seen the big-to-small shot pattern recommended by float fishing companies and other anglers. Personally, I think it’s a great way to sell more split shots since instead of buying just one or two sizes of split shots and doing it my way, you need to buy 6 to 8 sizes to do it their way.
The thing with both methods is that the results are exactly the same, they both have more weight at the top and less weight at the bottom.
The goal with the heavier weight at the top and the lighter weights at the bottom is to create the leader angle that you see in both of my diagram pictures. With the heavier weight at the top and lighter weight at the bottom, the idea is that the bait will go first so as not to spook the trout with the split shots, heavier leader line, or the float.
There is much more to this than just the bait going first and it’s a concept that you should know if you want to really want to improve your success. I discuss this and the 4 key fundamentals to catching more fish when float fishing on my page Float Fishing: Tips From A Pro River Guide For More Trout.
I often tell guys that I like my float fishing leader setup better because I’m lazy, but in reality, I’m just being practical.
My way is faster to do, requires only 1 size of split shot, and is just as effective as the other way.
This picture shows the exact leader that I use. In fact, this is a used leader I found hanging on the wall in my fishing room at home which includes a 6.2-gram float and a pink worm, and a raven #10 sedge hook.
FYI, I use 7 AB size split shots with a 6-gram float.
This is the best general-purpose leader for trout and steelhead and on almost all slow to fast-moving rivers.
I would increase my float size, and my weights, and my hook size on very large west coast rivers or on big rivers like the Niagara River.
Shot Line Length
The length of the shotline will depend on the average depth or the shallowest depth of water that I will be fishing.
When fishing rivers with spots from 36 inches to 6 feet deep my shot line is twenty inches. A 20-inch shot line combined with a 16″ lower leader will give me a total length of 3 feet and this will allow me to fish as shallow as 3 feet. I can easily slide my float up to fish 4 or 5 or 6 foot deep pools.
If I get into 6 to 8 foot pools I can still slide the float up even further, but often I will add a second leader of about 12 to 16 inches and second bait tied off the top bait hook. You can see that in my 2 bait leader rig below.
I find adding the second leader is a great way to increase the overall leader length without needing to adjust or lengthen my shot line.
Why I Always Use A Shot Line?
A reader just asked about what happens in shallower water and he asked if he just slides the float down and over the top swivel. My answer and the 3 reasons that I always use a shot line is this.
The reason for the swivel and the separate shot line is so that I can run a piece of fluorocarbon leader where my split shots go. There are three reasons for doing this.
1. The fluorocarbon is more abrasion resistant than your mainline (which is usually mono) so it’s less likely to break should it hit rocks or logs that are below the surface.
I tell my clients that if you cut mono 50% of the way through the line that you will lose about 80 or 90 percent of its strength, which means the 10-pound line is now 1 or 2 pounds, but if you cut fluorocarbon 50% of the way through you will retain about 50% of its strength.
Now, that’s just a guess and not exact science, but based on my experience, mono that has been nicked or cut breaks much easier than nicked fluorocarbon does.
2. The fluorocarbon shot line allows me to go lighter than the mainline so not only is the fluorocarbon more invisible underwater than the mainline, but it’s also thinner and that makes it even more invisible to the fish.
I know for a fact that in some situations, guys that run their mainline all the way down to the bottom swivel will be spooking some fish that see the line.
3. The fluorocarbon is also a clear line which allows me to use a high viz line as my mainline, (which I always do). The high viz line has a lot of advantages over a clear line, or a green line, especially for someone who is learning or for a guide like me that teaches most of the time.
You should never run your high-viz line down to the lower swivel as some websites suggest, this often results in fewer fish hooked.
The total length of my leader from that top swivel to the bait is usually 3 feet. This allows me to fish a 2.5-foot to 3-foot spot providing I get the right angle that I talk about.
Getting your angles right is critical to catching more fish when float fishing. If you aren’t sure about getting the right angles, you should check out my page Centerpin Fishing: An Expert Centerpin Guide Explains It.
It’s rare that I will float fish a spot that is less than 2.5 feet deep and if I do, I simply pull the float caps off my float and slide them over the micro-swivel and then slide some weights down and then put my float back on below the swivel at the desired depth.
Should I find fish in pocket water or in really shallow water under 2.5 feet deep, I will usually take the entire leader and float off and switch to a bottom bouncing rig which is far more effective in that type of water.
Fishing Deep Water With My Float Fishing Leader Setup
Someone asked a question about what to do if you fish deep water. For me, deep water means about 8 to 15 feet deep and I have two options for you.
Deepwater is a bit tricky because it usually requires more weight to get the bait all the way down to the bottom. If you add more weight, you will also need to up-size your float. This is why you will see guys using 12 to 20-gram slip floats on big rivers like the Niagara River or out on the big west coast steelhead rivers.
You will want to use only as much weight as you need to in order to get the bait down. You then only use a float that can handle all that weight. If you need more weight, you upsize your float, if you need less weight, you downsize your float.
As you can see in the diagram, if I am fishing in a river where most spots are 3 to 6 feet deep, but 1 or 2 spots are 7 to 15 feet deep, I still use the same leader, but I just simply slide my float up the line to the desired depth and leave my shot line and everything else exactly as it is.
It’s almost like the bulk shotting method that I will talk about below since all your weight is near the bottom and near the fish.
If I fish a lot in the deeper water, I will add a couple of split shots on the mainline which I can slide up and down the line as needed. It’s not usually needed to add the split shots on the mainline but sometimes it helps keep your float from lying flat on the water.
When you get back to a shallow spot you simply move the shots and the float down. You can see the added split shot up near the float in the diagram above.
Someone mentioned the fish seeing the mainline with this method. The fish shouldn’t see the mainline since the bait should still be 3 to 4 feet away from the bait.
I will also sometimes add a second leader with a second bait of about 12 to 20 inches tied off the hook bend of the top hook to make the whole leader longer and to get the shots and shot line higher up and away from the fish.
Adding the second leader and bait makes the entire leader closer to 6 feet deep which is better in the deeper water of 8 to 12 feet deep, and so there is less mainline in the water.
If I move back into shallower water again I can just remove the second bait and leader so I have a short leader again.
If you do decide to run the 2 baits, to make sure that the bottom bait is getting down to the fish or the bottom, I will add a split shot between the two baits, usually about dead center. See my 2 bait float fishing leader in the diagram below.
2 Float Fishing Leader Setups For Deeper Rivers
If I’m fishing a bigger river where all the spots are 10 feet or more, my float fishing leader setup is a bit different.
For a deepwater float fishing leader setup I will make a shot-line of about 6 feet long and use much larger splits shots, and then space them out in the same basic pattern as I would with my regular shot line.
The main difference is that on my normal shallow-water shot-line the space between the top two split shots might be only an inch apart because I need to get 5 to 7 splits on a 16 to 20″ piece of leader, therefore they all need to be closer.
But on my longer float fishing leader setup, I will use a 6-foot to 8 foot long shot line and the space between the top two split shots might start around 6 inches because now I have to fill up 6 to 8 feet of leader, and not just 20 inches of leader.
With the deep water float fishing leader, you will need to upsize the split shots to be sure the leader works properly and that the bait gets down fast enough.
I use lead shots around the size of a pea. or ones that are double the size of my normal AB-sized split shots. If I don’t have big enough split shots, instead of using just one AB or BB split shot, I may just put 2 or even 3 split shots side by side and I will do this at every split shot location.
Your float size also needs to increase to a 12 to 16-gram float. Slip floats are often the best to use when fishing water is deeper than your float rod is long. This will help you cast easier and will help you land the fish easier.
Fast Water Float Fishing Leader
This fast and deep float fishing leader setup which is known as a bulk shot leader or as bulk shotting is one that I might use when I need to get my bait down to the fish very fast.
With this rig, all 5 out of seven split shots are placed 12 to 14 inches from the bait which will get your bait down really fast.
Keep the same length of shot line section for all depths and just slide your float up or down to get the desired depth.
I also keep the bait 8 to 14 inches from the lowest splits shots so that it gets down and stays down. In fast water, the fish won’t notice the split shots so you can keep them closer than you normally would.
I only use the bulk shot float fishing leader setup if the fish are holding at the bottom of deep drop-off ledges like in the picture below.
An example would be if I was fishing a spot in fast water where the bottom went from 2 feet deep to 7 feet deep very fast and all the fish are sitting on that 7-foot drop.
I would cast a couple of feet before the drop and the weights would pull the bait down the slope of the drop and into the strike zone.
This would be the only time I would use this type of float fishing leader, all other times my standard float fishing leader setup is better.
Is Split Shot On The Bottom Leader OK?
Someone recently asked if it’s OK to add a split shot to the bottom section of the leader as seen in this diagram and the answer is yes, but only do it if you need to.
My float fishing leader uses a 16 to 24-inch bottom leader. 16 inches from the weight is not that far and the bait should get down and stay down. But, there are times when I will add a weight to this part of the leader.
The reason I don’t do this very often is that the split shot between the bottom swivel and the bait can easily slide down and hit the bait.
As long as you are observant and keep checking to make sure that split shot doesn’t slide down to the bait it will be fine and it could even work better than not having it there, especially when fishing more buoyant baits.
Most guys will fish many drifts before they notice that the split shot has slid down to the bait, and that wastes time and can spook fish on that drift and on all other drifts after that even if you move the split shot up, so I have a little trick that I use.
Guide Tip: I have been known to use a split shot between the bottom swivel and the bait when I use buoyant baits like a Berkley Trout Worm but you could do it with any bait if you feel you are not getting down to the fish.
To do this right, I will sometimes cut the leader dead center between the swivel and the bait and then tie in a Triple Surgeons Knot or Uni-to-Uni Knot, and then I will place my split shot above the knot so that it can’t slide down to the bait.
2 Bait Float Fishing Leader Setup – 2 Ways
When I use a double bait rig, the second bait is often far from the closest split shot and that can mean that the bottom bait won’t be able to get down to the fish or won’t stay down.
This is more true on lightweight or buoyant baits like plastic worms.
Therefore, when I fish two baits I will either use a heavy bait like a glass bead on the bottom or I will sometimes add a split shot between the two baits to be sure that both baits are getting down to the fish and the bottom.
You can see how to fish beads and which beads I prefer on my page Fishing With Beads: 5 Guide Tips For More Fish
Easy 2-Bait Rig For Steelhead And Trout
For this 2-bait trout and steelhead rig, I tie the second line off the bend of the hook.
This is a fast and easy way to rig two baits on a leader. I’ve also included the line sizes that I use for great lakes steelhead in this picture.
The reason I use this 2-bait rig a lot is that I can easily fish sections of the river that are from 2 to 4 feet deep with just the top bait, and when it gets deeper instead of sliding the float up, I simply tied on a second leader with a second bait off the hook bend.
If it gets too shallow for both baits I just cut the one off and only use 1 bait again.
This allows me to fish shallow and deep easily, and it allows me to experiment with baits and to see if 2 baits are more effective than one bait.
For trout fishing, I just drop down in size, I go about 0.4mm to 0.6mm in diameter smaller, so for the bottom section of the leader, instead of using 0.20mm which I love for great lakes steelhead, I will use 0.14mm for trout.
In case you are wondering why I say to go by the millimeter size instead of just saying to go from 8-pound test to 4-pound test is because of the brands that do not rate their lines properly which I explain above.
When the water is not clear, I will keep the two baits 12 to 14 inches apart but when the water is very clear I will often increase the distance between the baits up to 24 inches because the fish will be able to see the bait from a distance.
Tying your lower leader off the bend of the hook like this does have some issues. It makes threading on spawn bags and some other baits more difficult because the line prevents the bait from going on the hook all the way. I will show you another option below.
The Best 2-Bait Float leader Setup
Another 2-bait set up that I use when guiding and fishing is this 2-bait tag rig.
Instead of tying the second leader off the bend of the hook, I add a 4 to 6-inch tag line with a hook on it.
This allows better movement of the bait, allows better hookups because the fish can inhale it better, and it allows me to add any bait unobstructed by a line tied off the hook bend.
I will either tie the tag off of the micro swivel or off of a triple surgeon’s knot, I just leave one long tag and cut the other tag off.
A key to my success with these 2-bait rigs is that I always put my confidence bait on the bottom because that is the bait that is most likely going to get eaten and it’s the closest to the fish. If they don’t eat that bait I will start rotating through different colors, different sizes, and different baits, to try to figure out what they want.
Float Fishing Leader For Shallow Water
Someone just asked me what leader set up is best for float fishing in water that is 2 feet deep or less, my reply was this:
To be honest, I don’t float fish in 2 feet of water or less unless the water is off-colored.
The reason for this is that I like to catch fish, but in very shallow water that is 2 feet or less, the fish are likely going to see your float and your weights, and therefore they are more likely to get spooked, and then you won’t catch them. The exception is fishing in dirty water.
Since I like to catch fish, in water that is 2 feet or less, I will often switch to my advanced bottom bouncing method which can be done with a Centerpin reel or a spinning reel and is much more effective in shallow water if done right.
If for some reason I wanted to fish in 2 feet or less of clear or dirtier water, the diagram above is my very shallow water float fishing leader set-up.
Got A Question About Float Fishing Leader Setups
Hopefully, I didn’t miss anything about float fishing leader setups and how to set them up, but if you have a question or comment or an idea that works for you, let me and all the readers know in the comment section below.
Tight Lines
Graham
Hey graham i just starting to get into steelheading and got my first centerpin. When i was reading this i found that your set up is much different from others i just have a question, why is there a swivel below the float when in some situations the pool is deeper so you’d have too move your float and split shots but the swivel is stopping that?
Hi Joshua, good question. The reason for the swivel and the separate shot line is so that I can run a piece of fluorocarbon leader where my split shots go. There are 3 reasons for doing this.
#1. The fluorocarbon is more abrasion resistant than your mainline (which is usually mono) so it’s less likely to break should it hit rocks or logs that are below the surface. I tell my clients that if you cut mono 50% of the way through the line you lose about 80 or 90 percent of its strength, which means the 10-pound line is now 1 or 2 pounds, but if you cut fluorocarbon 50% of the way through you will retain about 50% of its strength. Now, that’s just a guess, but based on my findings nicked mono breaks much easier than nicked fluorocarbon.
#2. The fluorocarbon shot line allows me to go lighter than the mainline so not only is the fluorocarbon more invisible underwater than the mainline, but it’s also thinner and that makes it even more invisible to the fish. I know for a fact that in some situations, guys that run their mainline all the way down to the bottom swivel will be spooking some fish that see the line.
#3. The fluorocarbon is also clear which allows me to use a high viz line as my mainline, (which I always do). The high viz line has a lot of advantages over a clear line,or a green line, especially for someone who is learning or for a guide like me that teaches most of the time.
The total length of my leader from that swivel to the bait is usually 3 feet. That allows me to fish a 2.5-foot to 3-foot spot providing I get the right angle that I talk about.
It’s rare that I will float fish a spot that is less than 2.5 feet deep and if I do, I simply pull the float caps off my float and slide them over the micro-swivel and then slide some weights down and then put my float back on below the swivel at the desired depth.
Should I find fish in pocket water or in really shallow water I will usually take the entire leader and float off and switch to bottom bouncing which is far more effective in that type of water. Thanks for your question. I will likely add this to the post for others.. Good luck this spring.
I have a question about the bottom leader line from the bottom swivel to the bait.
In your opinion is it ok to put 1 split shot on this line to ensure the bait stays down?
Hi Mike, Good question and I answered it in the post in more detail with a couple of diagrams for you. The simple answer is yes, it’s definitely ok to do and it can also work better in some cases, providing that you watch it closely and that don’t let it slide down to the bait, see my Guide Tip for that.
Hi Graham really enjoy reading your material.
Thanks Phil, I’m hoping to keep growing the website and making it better.
Hey Graham –
When casting up river into the current, does “slowing” the float still apply considering there’s no way to really mend the line or control the rate of drift until the float is somewhat downstream (or left) of the angler’s position? In other words, when using a float, you’re not really “fishing” until that float begins to go down river with the flow of the current. Once down river, it’s possible to ensure the float tilts in the opposite directly of the current flow. Just wanted clarification. Thanks for all the info you have posted thus far.
– Chris
Hi Chris,
You are correct, I almost never let my clients cast upriver because you can not control float and leader angles and speed. I always try to be upriver of where my target zone is and always fish from the top of the zone down and try to cover the water systematically. See how I cover the water HERE.
Check out my page Controlling Your Speed For More Fish When Float Fishing
Good luck
What is your recommend exact lenght of the shotline and leader?
Hi JC, I added a section on shot line length.
When fishing rivers with spots from 36 inches to 6 feet deep my shot line is twenty inches. A 20-inch shot line combined with a 16″ lower leader will give me a total length of 3 feet and this will allow me to fish as shallow as 3 feet. I can easily slide my float up to fish 4 or 5 or 6 foot deep pools.
Hey Graham, Great content! This has been incredibly helpful!
I fish Lake Erie tribs and the vast majority of anglers I see are using a 2-bait rig almost always despite depth. If you are fishing a 3 or 4 foot spot, will you ever use a 2-bait rig or is that only for deeper water?
Thanks!
Hi Mike,
I use 2 bait rigs all the time. 3 feet is a bit shallow for a 2 bait rig, but 4 feet plus should be ok. If you fish a lot of shallow water 3 to 5 feet, just make your shot line shorter and the distance from your bottom swivel to your bottom bait can stay around 14 to 20 inches
Hey Graham, What float set-up would you suggest when fishing stocked ponds where the rainbows are normally smaller. Plan on using a 7 foot light action rod and wondering what size of line i should be using for the main line, shot and leader lines. Also do you ever use braid for just the main line on either of your setups?
Thanks so much
John
Hey John,
I would use my standard leader or a leader with a slip float. I’ll be discussing slip floats later on. The line sizes depend on how picky they are but in general I would drop down 2 sizes on all lines. A 2 to 4-pound leader should be good enough for smaller stocked trout. The mainline off your reel is irrelevant as long as your leader is long enough that the fish won’t see the mainline. However, 6 pound mainline should be good, and a braided line will also be good as long as the fish don’t see it.
Good luck.
Graham
Hi Graham,
Would you also use a shot line for salmon fishing (Vancouver island)? If so, would it be the same as explained above?
Also, what’s your take on the following set up. Fixed float on mainline, weight, bead, snap swivel and a 22 inches leader length max?
Thx!
Hi Oliver,
The last time I fished Vancouver Island weights on the line were not permitted, however, maybe it was just the area or river I was fishing.
I don’t stray from the leaders I show on the page since they are proven to be the most effective. I would definitely not put a snap swivel on the leader with a float.
Graham
Thank you very much for your response Graham! All the best!
Hey Graham, great article! I am from BC and many rivers I fish have deep pools up to 20ft+. The norm here is using a slip float with a small rubber bobber stop to keep the float at the right depth. I never seen people use split shot, but your article is fantastic and I love to try. Here everyone uses a 25 to 30g float with only one single 20g egg sinker on mainline; no shot line, then 18” leader then bait/hook.
Do you have any articles on float fishing with a slip bobber? Do you use still use the shot line for that or even for 25-30g floats?
Also wouldn’t it be easier just to use one giant egg sinker rather then many split-shots so it’s basically acting like a bulk shot every single time? Just curious as to why no one used split shots in BC even for 5-10ft pools, every uses just a single pencil lead or heavy egg sinker.
Cheers
Hey Ryan,
Great Questions,
There is definitely a difference in style between the great lakes float setup and method and the BC Style.
For me, when fishing spots deeper than my rod is long, I’ll use a slip float, and often I’ll continue using the same split shot method unless all the spots are deep. With slip floats or fixed floats I will upsize my weights or the quantity of weights based on the velocity and depth of the current. For spots 13 feet or less I always prefer a fixed float with split shots as seen in the article.
If the water is fast on the surface and less than 10 feet deep, my experience has proven that using split shots (heavy at the top and lighter at the bottom) and then controlling the angle and speed of the float is superior to bulk shoting with an egg sinker, pencil lead or multiple split shots bulked up. Unless there’s a fast drop and I need to get my weight down super fast, then the bulk shot rig can be better.
In slow surface water spots, especially if its deep, bulk shotting works very well, and maybe even better that the split shot setup, so stick with it.
The reason I prefer and all the guides around the great lakes use split shots is because the majority of spots we fish are 4 to 10 feet deep and medium speed or less.
In my opinion, part of the reason why BC anglers all use the same method, and why Great Lake Steelheaders all use a different method is a “monkey see, monkey do” mentality. Meaning, once something catches on and everyone uses it, why change what is already working. Most guys don’t think outside the box so they get stuck in their ways.
The last time I fished steelhead in BC the guide was blown away by how many steelhead I was hooking with my rig and asked me to show him how I was able to hook so many in such a short time, this proves that splits shots and alternative methods can and do work in both BC and great lakes area.
Best of luck,
Graham
Also 25 to 30 gram floats is overkill in my opinion unless your fishing something like the main stem of the Skeena. Again, old school ways.